That’s how The Independent newspaper headlined a report in April. We wrote a LinkedIn post about it here.
In fact, the study the article was based on – the Fine Wines and Restaurants Market Monitor from Bain & Co – didn’t even mention Hull! The Indie could equally have used York, or Harrogate, or Newcastle to illustrate the point that the fine wines of southern Europe could be produced in northern England by the next century, thanks to rising temperatures. But the irony was intended - and unnecessary!
This was what the study actually said: “Climate change is redrawing the wine map. Southern regions face rising temperatures (+3°C from flowering to harvest in 2024) and extreme droughts (-50mm rainfall), threatening traditional vineyards. Meanwhile, northern areas like Denmark, will gain ground with longer growing seasons and milder conditions. If the climate challenge is not addressed, Cabernet Sauvignon, once exclusive to southern Europe, may thrive in central and northern regions by 2100.”
Cabernet Sauvignon isn’t the only grape in town, of course – and it isn’t just grown in Bordeaux. In fact, if the Danes are going to rush out and plant Mediterranean grapes, they might well choose a Sardinian variety, as the island’s wines are gaining popularity among Nordic wine lovers.
Altering climate patterns are real in Sardinia. We saw that for ourselves in December. In some vineyards, bud break had come several months too early, which can leave the vines vulnerable to damage. If temperatures continue to track upwards, it will have an impact not only on viticultural techniques, but some DOC and DOCG appellations, which lay down strict rules around location and cultivation, might well have to be reviewed.
That said, if anyone can adapt to changing conditions, the winegrowers of Sardinia can… they’ve only been at it for 3,000 years!